If you're heating up though there likely is a reason
thermostat
wrong length fan extension.
Wrong fan
blocked rad tubes

missing shroud

incorrect fluid levels

incorrect ignition timing

RAD

On a day the car is running and at operating temperature place hand on face
of rad and feel for warm and cold spots. If you have cold areas you have
blockage.
I use rad on lawn with garden hose and compressed air thru bottom hole (rad
full of water flat on ground) to free blockages.

Keep in mind if the fan is too far away, too small or an aftermarket fan a
new rad may not fix the real problem if it is a fan related problem.
 Also if timing is not adv enough it will warm.

Its a lil cooler where I am on Pacific Canada coast but we do see temps of
90+ periodically and currently seeing 80 this week. Rarely see 100 here.
That being said a three row is same as a 3 core. You can count the
cores/rows thru top with cap off of rad.

Tricore is definately better.

 How close is the fan to rad?
 If its a store bought flex fan it will be the cause of your overheat as the
aftermarket (AM) fans do not pull near as much air as a Ford flex fan placed
at right distance from rad.
 In 64 there was no shroud it was a matter of bringing the fan to rad and
about 1" of space between fan and rad iirc. Correct diameter fan is also
critical to proper cooling. Typically 17" for 221 thru 351 and 18" for larger and some extra cooling applications.

Electrics are not as "cool" as everyone thinks.

 Pulling is more efficient than pushing. Pull air thru rather than potentially blow the air around or bounce off the
rad.

I had not realized (though I should have) that the power required from the
battery taxes the alt which taxes the engine.
 IMO the only time an electric is beneficial is when there is no room
especially in Rod applications.
I strip them off cars I buy or build and will talk sense to my clients till
they either get it or get someone else,lol.

An electric fan is not free horsepower. It just changes from mechanical (fan
belt) power to electric (alternator or generator) power. Nothing's free! the
only way electric fans are 'free' HP is if you don't use more than a battery
in the car and charge it between rounds.

 Stock fans pull more air.

The idea behind the clutch fan is that the fan will always turn some amount
as long as the engine is turning. As the engine cools off, the clutch lets
the fan slip, reducing load on it. As the air through the radiator gets
hotter, it tightens the clutch, making the fan turn more. It's that simple.
If you already have a cooling problem, it won't solve it. You'll still have
to work that out.

UPGRADE

 If you'd like to upgrade cooling there are several ways.
 1st though if you have the stamped steel impellor on your water pump and
the T stat has the small hole bypass then you can expect cavitation and over
heating as the steel impellor moves more water than the cast iron impellor.
You'll have to remove the WP cover on rear to see what you have.
Overlooked cooling upgrades are
A) smaller water pump pulley moves more water
 B) 180 or 195 stat ensures proper temps.
C) the fan 17" for SB and 18" for FE is what was stock most applications can
be upgraded to a FORD issued FLEX fan. Aftermarket are junk and a waste of
$$.
D) the thermal AC clutch aka extra cooling clutch fan. This is THE ticket to
use. A clutch thermal fan draws air only when its required and spins freely
when not required.

 

The adaptation is quite easy
 1) ensure wallet is $100 to fat.
2) once you have the $$ almost any decent parts store will sell you a proper
clutch and a FAN for about $75ish for the pair. Thirdly you will need to
adapter kit which is just short engine studs. 1" will work. Fine thread at
one end and course thread at other end 5/16. Four studs four NF 5/16" nuts 4
washers and your set.
Remove the existing arrangement> install studs>fan to clutch>clutch to
waterpump.
Enjoy!

Most FoMoCo apps I am familiar with (66/70 mainly but
some other years I have owned as well all early 60s and have clients over
years) use a 3.3" fan clutch length for the W series of engines 221 260 289
302 351. THe FE requires a shorter 3".
I like to leave an inch between rad and fan, more if shrouded and the shroud
fits the fan blades properly. So measure off the pulley to rad and give
yourself about an inch before going shopping as many parts guys will look
awful confused when you say anything early 60s and fan clutch etc.

I have one FoMOCo small block clutch to sell $75 or you can buy a new Hayden
or Everco for about half that.

 the #s for the fans and the fan clutches are mainly for FE applications however there are also W and C applications I just don't yet have the part #s as I do for FE.
Fan Clutches
Everco #s
Centrifugal w/5/8" pilot hole CJ and 390 A8684
Centrifugal w/3/4" pilot hole CJ and 390 A8692

Thermal clutches which are what most cars will have with AC or extra
cooling

289/302 A 8195 Fan 17" A8780
351 A 8194 Fan 18" A8781 AC or A8780 non AC 17"
390/428 A 8192 which is the correct 3" length of the unit for correct
clearance to rad.
Fan 390/428 A8781 18"

Hayden #s
Centrifugal or non thermal 1710
Thermal as posted prior 2710
Hayden fan CJ and 390 #3618 no 17 fans in Hayden that I could find for
application .
 

HOW IT WORKS

Come late 69 early 70 the engines were equipped with a vac tree on stat
housing usually.
 This vac tree helps your situation but first the ways it does not help.
 the purp of the tree is to direct vacuum at different temps.
 When cold the IMCO tree prevents the timing from going too far advanced.
This is better for fuel mileage as well as eco system. Most unburned Hydro Carbons
are during warm up and where lots of pollution occurs.
 The hot problem was addressed several ways over the years aside from the
Xtra cooling and flex fans and clutch fans and shrouds already touched on.
There was other technology on 4V carbs mid 60s. The bi metallic strip on top
of rear of carb opens up allowing more air and increases revs of engine to
move more air and water to cool engine down.
 Come late 60s we see the IMCO system partially described above.
 How it helps you in traffic is the bimetallic strip is eliminated and the
vac tree does the job of redirecting vacuum when hot.
 This increase in vacuum raises the engine's idle point drawing more air
thru rad and moving water more rapidly in an effort to cool whilst sitting
in traffic.
Hopefully that's of some help to some one. I love my IMCO system and will
install it on every engine I can. Good cold starts and helps cooling when
hot.
Another reason engines heat up is that the timing is too far retarded or
that the vac adv is not working therefore timing is retarded equating to
more heat.
 So you see my Mercury friends that rad and fan is not ALL of a cooling
system.
Oil also cools as well as lubricates and if your oil is low it will heat up
sooner.