69 and later Windshield Urethane Installation

    Often we have to remove a windshield to either replace or renew the seal.

    This article will play by play many of the steps required to Urethane a windshield into your car using modern technology unavailable in the late 60s.

    I'll assume you can get the car to the point of gaining access to the windshield.

    The glass is prepped ready to install. It has been cleaned and the edge has been primed with the urethane primer on a dabber.

    Several ways to remove a wiper arm. I use 10" water pump pliers or regular large pliers at the 3 and 6 positing if the screwdriver and arm is viewed as 12 and 6. I use tape on the jaws or paper or shop towel so I don't mark the sides. A lil wiggle and pull up at same time releases the wiper arm most times and is actually easier than one thinks.

    The cowl must be removed to gain access. The piece shown here is the hood to cowl static charge collector. It suppresses static on AM radios.

    Remove the 1/4 screws and work your way around the window trim gently releasing the clips. The clips need to be pulled toward the glass to let go of the rolled edge of the mouldings.

    The windshield removal tool of choice has an L at end and at end of L is a sharp blade. A cable attached to the shaft helps pull while steadying the blade. Our pro makes it look easy.

    As the seal is broken you can use water or glass cleaner to stop if from sticking while trying to cut the remaining seal.

    Press the glass slowly out from the inside

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    Once the glass is removed the pinch weld must be thoroughly cleaned with sika cleaner for Urethane.

    First the old butyl tape is scraped away and then daubers of chemical cleaner to remove the remaining goo.

    If any old goo remains the new Urethane seal will not seal.

    Use a rust stopper for any rusty areas where metal has been exposed for some period of time. Fresh scrapes to paint is fine. Don't put anything on it except for the Urethane primer which is applied with a series of daubers. If you have any small holes you can use Urethane . If you have large rust issues think about a proper repair. No need to replace a roof for a small hole though. Fill it and move on.

    Primer the area the windshield seals to with the correct primer. Apply extra sealer with a  spoon or tab to the areas where the welds meet in the upper corners. Let dry while re-installing the window clips.

 

 

Clean the pinch weld and prime with Urethane

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    The Urethane windshield adhesive is applied to the windshield using a caulking gun. The nozzle needs to be tweaked for the correct pattern of the adhesive. The V is elongated to allow a steeper stack of Urethane sealer. A razor around the edge of the previously primered edge of the glass removes any dry slag that will interrupt the smooth flow of the Urethane to the glass as we walk around the perimeter applying the sealer adhesive to glass. Use the spoon to seal the inside area effectively.

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    Be sure to seam your seal at the bottom and not the top or sides. This is an extra measure to prevent leaks. The spoon seals the edge and makes a nice finish.

    Proper glass cups are used to carry the glass to its resting place. The glass is inserted on one side and then the other end is carefully brought across down and into location.Make sure the gaps are equal and carefully squish it gently into place.

 

Once sealer is applied the glass can be placed in its spot.

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Reattach the mouldings by tapping them into place onto their clips. Careful with the glass. Make sure the glass and the trim fits nicely. New glass is thinner than the originals so more glue is needed to hold the glass further off the window pinch weld frame. The trims should just lie on the glass.

 

Tap the mouldings back onto their clips.

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